Termites do not chew loudly or leave muddy footprints on the porch. They work in silence, often for years, softening joists, hollowing sill plates, and nibbling baseboards until a screwdriver sinks through what looks like solid wood. By the time a homeowner notices buckling floors or sagging door frames, the colony has often matured and spread. I have crawled under hundreds of homes where a missed detail, like a buried form board or a slow hose bib leak, turned into a five-figure repair. The good news is that with the right plan and timely action, you can stop an active infestation and build a strong line of defense around your home.
How termites threaten your foundation
Most foundation damage tied to termites traces back to subterranean species, which live in soil and travel up into structures to feed. In many climates they are the dominant threat to residential properties because they use the consistent moisture and temperature in the soil to their advantage. A typical mature subterranean colony can number in the hundreds of thousands. Workers forage 24 hours a day, guided by humidity and the scent of decaying cellulose. When they find a crack in a slab or a gap at a plumbing penetration, they build shelter tubes to maintain moisture as they travel.
What happens next takes time but carries real consequences. Termites target the cellulose in wood fibers, eating along the grain and leaving a paper-thin veneer that looks intact until touched. In sill plates or rim joists that sit on concrete, that loss of structural mass shows up as settling and uneven floors. In crawl spaces, they reduce the bearing strength of support posts and girders. In a finished basement, they tunnel behind drywall, reaching studs through tiny gaps. Home inspectors see the after-effects first: drywall seams that split at doors, window frames that stick in humid months, a deck ledger that feels springy at the fasteners. None of those details prove termites on their own, but they often point us where to look.
Know your enemy: species and behavior that matter
Three groups account for almost all residential termite calls.
Subterranean termites live in the soil and build the pencil-width mud tubes you may see on foundation walls. They require constant moisture and prefer to feed on soft, spring-growth wood. They are the most common and the most damaging where winters are moderate to warm. Their queens can live more than a decade, and the colony continually sends out new foragers.
Drywood termites live entirely within the wood they consume. They do not need soil contact and can infest roof framing, window frames, and furniture. They leave small, hard pellets called frass, which look like piles of sand or coarse coffee grounds beneath kick-out holes. They are common in coastal and arid regions and often arrive in homes inside infested trim or furniture.
Dampwood termites prefer very moist wood and are less common in typical residential framing. Where they appear, we usually find chronic moisture, such as a long-term leak, poor drainage at grade, or earth-to-wood contact in a crawl.
Knowing which group you have changes everything. The treatment for a drywood infestation in an attic beam is not the same as the plan for a subterranean colony nesting in the lawn 20 feet from your porch.
Early clues you can spot without tools
You do not need to be a professional exterminator to spot the clues that lead to termite control. If you walk the perimeter of your home twice a year, preferably after a rain and again in late spring, you can catch early activity before it becomes costly. Look close to grade for tubes climbing up foundation walls or piers. Check baseboards on exterior walls for blistered paint or ridges that give under light pressure. In an attic or crawl, tap suspect boards and listen for a hollow sound. Inspect window sills for small piles of pellets, which suggest drywood termites.
Another seasonal clue appears in spring and early summer when reproductive termites swarm and shed their wings. Homeowners often report finding dozens of identical, translucent wings on the floor near a slider or on a window ledge. Those wings are not proof the swarm originated inside, but they are a strong indicator you need a proper inspection.
What a thorough inspection looks like
A professional pest control inspection goes beyond shining a flashlight and pointing at tubes. It begins with a conversation. We ask about leaks, renovations, additions, or any past termite treatment. We walk the outside slowly, trailing the grade line and any hardscape that meets the house. Foundation cracks, deck posts, garage door frames, and utility penetrations all get close attention. In slab homes, expansion joints and bath traps are critical points. In crawl spaces, we check the rim joist, sill plate, support piers, and any wood that sits close to soil or insulation that can trap moisture. In finished spaces, moisture meters and infrared cameras help us catch anomalies behind baseboards or in wall cavities.
If the evidence suggests drywood termites, we look for kick-out holes and frass patterns and may use borescopes to examine voids. For subterranean activity, we probe suspect wood with an awl, scrape tubes to see if workers rebuild within days, and sometimes place simple monitors to track foraging paths.
A good inspection report documents findings with photos, identifies conditions conducive to termites, and lays out treatment options with the trade-offs, timelines, and costs. Avoid any pest control company that pushes a single solution without explaining why it fits your home.
Treatments that protect the structure, and when to use them
Several termite treatment methods work well when matched to the species, site conditions, and your goals. No single tool fits every case.
Liquid soil termiticides create a treated zone in the soil that termites cannot cross without lethal exposure. For slab-on-grade homes, we drill at regular intervals through concrete along the interior or exterior perimeter and apply product into the soil. In crawl spaces, we trench 6 to 8 inches deep along foundation walls and around piers, then backfill with treated soil. Properly installed, a continuous treatment can protect for 8 to 12 years, sometimes longer depending on soil type and product. This approach is ideal when active subterranean tubes are present or when you want long-term protection for the foundation.
Baiting systems use stations placed in the soil around your home. Termites feed on the bait and carry it back to the colony, sharing it and gradually collapsing the population. Baits work best where soil treatments are hard to apply, such as around wells, tight property lines, or dense landscaping, or when you want minimal drilling. With baits, patience is essential. They take months to eliminate a colony, and they work as a program, not a one-time event. Many homeowners pair a bait plan with a yearly pest control plan that includes monitoring.
Localized wood treatments target drywood termites or small, accessible subterranean activity. Borate treatments, foams, and dusts can penetrate galleries when we can reach the infestation through kick-out holes, drill points, or exposed framing. This approach suits limited drywood pockets in window frames, fascia, or a section of attic framing, or as a supplemental measure after a larger treatment.
Whole-structure fumigation is the gold standard for widespread drywood infestations. The home is tented and sealed, and a fumigant penetrates all wood voids, killing termites throughout. It does not prevent reinfestation, so it is often paired with follow-up spot treatments and prevention. Fumigation does not address subterranean termites because it does not treat soil.
Physical and construction-based tactics play a larger role than many expect. Stainless steel mesh, sand barriers with specific particle sizes, and properly installed termite shields on piers do not kill termites, but they block or reveal their paths. On new construction, soil pre-treatments and borate wood applications are cost-effective insurance. In a remodel, replacing earth-to-wood contact and adding clearances can remove problem bridges.
Choosing the right plan for your home
The choice often comes down to two questions: where do the termites live, and how does your home’s design guide the work. A brick veneer house on a monolithic slab calls for different drill patterns and injection points than a raised home with a vented crawl. A coastal bungalow with drywood termites in the rafters will not benefit from a soil termiticide. I often recommend combining methods. For a suburban home with active subterranean tubes along the garage and a wet side yard, a perimeter liquid treatment paired with gutter and grade corrections gives fast control and long-term protection. For a hillside home with inaccessible soil along a retaining wall and a neighbor’s pool equipment, baiting offers control without risking runoff or structural drilling.
Budget matters too. Liquid perimeter treatments typically run in the low to mid thousands depending on linear footage and the need to drill or trench through concrete and landscaping. Bait systems can start lower but require ongoing service visits. Localized drywood spot treatments can be a few hundred dollars per site, but widespread drywood control through fumigation can reach several thousand, plus lodging costs if you cannot stay in the home. A reputable, licensed pest control company will explain these ranges and why one path makes sense for your house.
What to expect from a professional visit
Quality exterminator services are methodical, clean, and well documented. Technicians should arrive in marked vehicles with safety data sheets, product labels, and licenses. Before work begins, they walk you through the plan: where they will drill, what plants they will need to move, how they will protect pets and kids, and how long to stay off treated soil. After a liquid soil treatment, the crew should patch drill holes in concrete with a close color match and rinse hardscape. For bait installations, they should map each station and mark access points for future checks. If the job involves attic or crawl work, expect plastic sheeting to protect flooring, and ask to see before and after photos.
Below is a short, homeowner-friendly checklist to prepare for a same day pest control visit for termites.
- Clear 2 to 3 feet around the exterior foundation by moving planters, firewood, and storage. Unlock gates and provide access to crawl spaces, attics, garages, and utility rooms. Mark irrigation, low-voltage lighting, and invisible dog fence routes if known. Keep pets and children inside during exterior treatments and away from treated soil until it dries. Gather prior pest inspection services reports or treatment warranties for the technician to review.
Safety, environmental choices, and pets
Homeowners rightly ask about safety. Licensed pest control companies use products registered by regulators, and when applied according to label directions, these treatments carry wide margins of safety for people and pets. Still, you have options. If you prefer eco friendly pest control or green pest control services, discuss low-impact baits and borate wood treatments where appropriate. For pet safe pest control, the simplest steps matter most: keep pets off treated soil until it dries, place bait stations flush pest control with grade and locked, and store all products out of reach. For sensitive sites near wells, streams, or vegetable gardens, a professional will draw buffer zones and may favor bait systems or physical measures.
Integrated pest management, often shortened to IPM, is more than a buzzword. It means using the least-risk methods that accomplish the job, correcting the conditions that favor pests, and reserving chemical treatments for targeted use. In practice, that might be fixing a downspout that dumps against a foundation, replacing landscape timbers that touch siding, and choosing a bait strategy instead of flooding a tricky bed with liquid.
Aftercare and preventing a second round
Termite extermination is not the end point. Think of it as stopping a storm, then building better drainage. Your home’s envelope and the soil around it either invite or deter future colonies. Take moisture out of the equation wherever possible. Aim for 6 inches of visible foundation above grade. Keep mulch thin, ideally 2 inches or less, and pulled back from siding. Fix dripping hose bibs and landscape irrigation that wets the foundation daily. Ventilate crawl spaces properly, and in humid regions, consider a sealed crawl with proper vapor barriers and dehumidification. Store firewood off the ground and away from the house. When you replace siding or trim, prime all cuts and maintain paint or sealant.
For long-term confidence, many homeowners choose a yearly pest control plan with monitoring. A quarterly pest control service that includes termite station checks, exterior barrier maintenance for ants and spiders, and targeted insect control services around doors and windows keeps more than termites at bay. If your home sits in a known high-pressure area, a yearly pest control plan with a termite warranty can be cost effective, especially when it includes re-treatment at no charge if activity returns.
Here is a simple, seasonal maintenance routine that pairs well with professional termite control.
- Spring: Walk the perimeter after the first warm rains. Look for swarmers and wings in windows. Clean gutters and extend downspouts. Summer: Check irrigation coverage. Keep soil and mulch pulled back from siding. Inspect decks where they meet the house. Fall: Rake back beds from the foundation. Seal gaps at utility penetrations. Schedule a pest control inspection if you have not had one this year. Winter: In mild climates, peek into the crawl for condensation or leaks. In colder zones, use interior time to look for blistered paint or soft baseboards. After storms: Ensure grade sheds water from the house and that drainage paths remain clear.
Real homes, real trade-offs
A few vignettes from jobs that still inform my recommendations:
A 1960s ranch on a slab had recurring ant trails and one soft baseboard behind the fridge. Moisture meter pegged high at the wall. A slow ice maker leak had wicked into the bottom plate, and subterranean termites found the cool, damp path along the conduit sleeve. We opened the wall, repaired plumbing, and treated the slab at the kitchen perimeter with a non-repellent termiticide. The homeowner wanted the best pest control option without tearing up the whole first floor. We limited drilling to the kitchen and adjacent bay window, then set bait stations in the mulch beds where excavation was limited by tree roots. Six months later, monitoring showed no activity.
A coastal cottage had drywood frass beneath three window frames and scattered pellets in the attic. The owners worked from home and dreaded leaving for fumigation. We mapped the galleries with a borescope and used a combination of foam and dust in accessible voids, then treated exposed rafters with borates. We set follow-ups at 30 and 90 days. Because drywood termites can be patchy and slow to reveal themselves, we wrote a one-year spot warranty with free re-treatments if new frass appeared in treated zones. Two years later, still clear. Not every home can avoid fumigation, but careful inspection can spare disruption when infestations are limited.
A hillside property had a crawl space cut into decomposed granite. Water from a neighboring lot bled under the foundation after heavy rains. The homeowner had called two different exterminator near me search results, both of which proposed a perimeter soil treatment. We opted for a trench and drain fix first, with a liquid treatment only after soil moisture tests stabilized. Liquid termiticides do not behave well in saturated soil, and the risk of runoff to a shared drainage swale was real. The neighbor appreciated the restraint, and both lots benefited from new drainage.
Working with a service provider you can trust
When you search pest control near me, you will see dozens of options. Pick a licensed pest control firm that explains, not just sells. Ask about the products and why they fit your site. Request copies of labels. Verify that the company offers a written warranty that spells out re-treatments and exclusions. In busy seasons, a fast pest control service matters, but speed should not replace a proper diagnosis. For larger properties or unusual construction, look for pest control specialists or pest management services with experience in custom homes, pier and beam foundations, or historical structures.
Pricing should be clear. Affordable pest control is not the cheapest quote, it is the plan that stops the problem and prevents a repeat, with minimal damage to your landscaping and finishes. A local pest control provider often understands soil types, building styles, and seasonal pressures better than a distant call center. If you manage rentals or commercial properties, ask whether the company also handles apartment pest control or office pest control, since scheduling and documentation requirements can differ from single-family homes.
Insurance, real estate, and timing
Homeowner’s insurance rarely covers termite damage because insurers classify it as preventable maintenance. That makes timing important. If you are buying or selling a home, a wood destroying insect inspection report, sometimes called a WDI or NPMA-33 in the United States, is standard in many regions and required by some lenders. Do not treat that as a mere checkbox. If a report notes conducive conditions, negotiate corrections before closing. It is far easier to trench and treat a perimeter when a seller has already cleared beds and moved out. For sellers, choosing professional pest control with a transferable warranty can smooth a sale and reassure buyers.
DIY limits and when to call in help
Hardware store shelves carry sprays and small stakes that promise fast control. They can help with scouting and minor drywood spot issues, but they are not a substitute for a continuous soil treatment or a calibrated bait program. I have visited too many homes where a well-meaning owner sprayed over mud tubes, driving termites deeper while missing the soil entry point. If you see active tubes, shed wings indoors, or structural wood that gives under light pressure, call a certified pest control provider. Many offer same day pest control or emergency pest control visits during swarming season.
That said, homeowners play a crucial role in prevention. Good grading, clean gutters, and dry crawl spaces go further than any product on a shelf. Think of a professional exterminator as part of your maintenance team, not only as a last resort.
Beyond termites: a full-home perspective
Termites rarely arrive alone. The conditions that draw them also favor ants, roaches, and rodents. After termite work, ask your provider about a broader residential pest control plan. A quarterly exterior sweep for ants, spider control services around eaves, and rodent proofing in the attic make sense when you have technicians already familiar with your property. Integrated plans often cost less than separate visits and keep pressure low year-round. If you have pets or gardens, request indoor pest control limited to crack and crevice work and outdoor pest control focused on entry points. A professional exterminator who can pivot from termite extermination to ant control services, cockroach control, or mice control services brings continuity and context.
For homeowners managing outbuildings, consider targeted solutions. Garden pest control and lawn pest control differ from structural termite work, but irrigation and mulch choices can intersect with your termite plan. Commercial and industrial pest control add layers like compliance and documentation, yet the core remains the same: identify conducive conditions, interrupt access, and monitor.
The bottom line for your foundation
Your foundation deserves a defense built on facts and fit to your site. Start with a clear inspection, match the treatment to the species and structure, and maintain the barrier with sensible moisture control and monitoring. The best pest control does not rely on a single product. It combines professional judgment, homeowner habits, and regular checks.
If you suspect activity or want peace of mind before the spring swarms, schedule pest control consultation with a trusted, licensed provider. Ask questions, expect transparency, and keep your records. Homes age well when owners pay attention to the quiet threats as much as to the squeaky doors. With a thoughtful plan, termites become another managed risk, not a lurking disaster beneath your feet.